Navigating the world of fragrance is part art, part science. From luxury houses to niche artisan brands, each perfume carries layers of complexity, designed to interact uniquely with the wearer's skin and lifestyle. To help demystify this process, I consulted with several master perfumers to provide an expert-led guide to choosing fragrances as individual as you are.
Fragrance is far more than a pleasant aroma -- it is a living, evolving experience that interacts uniquely with each wearer's body. According to David Adelon, master perfumer and founder of My Senteur By, every person's skin chemistry, pH balance, and microbiome subtly influence how notes are perceived and how long they linger. "Even the same fragrance will smell different on two people," he notes. "Understanding your skin's interaction with scent allows you to select fragrances that truly become part of your personal signature."
pH and Ingredients: Skin typically ranges from 4.5 to 5.5. Ingredients like essential oils, alcohols, and synthetics can temporarily shift this balance, affecting how notes open and evolve. Well-formulated perfumes -- especially those with hydrating agents like glycerin -- work in harmony with the skin, allowing top, heart, and base notes to reveal themselves gradually.
Cultural and Genetic Influences: Melanin-rich skin holds warm notes, such as vanilla, sandalwood, and resins, longer and more intensely. Individuals with higher sweat gland activity may notice brighter, fresher notes like citrus or aquatic accords emerging more quickly. The body's microbiome also plays a subtle yet significant role, making the same fragrance develop differently from person to person.
Lifestyle and Longevity: Fragrance should complement your daily routine and personal aesthetic. Light florals and herbal scents are ideal for active, day-to-day wear, while deeper woods, spices, and gourmand compositions suit formal or evening occasions. Hydrating the skin enhances longevity, while alternating fragrances helps prevent olfactory fatigue, ensuring that each scent maintains its vibrancy over time.
Adelon emphasizes, "At My Senteur, we only use natural, organic, and noble ingredients, free from endocrine disruptors and synthetic preservatives. This ensures that our fragrances not only smell exquisite but also maintain perfect harmony with your skin and natural pH."
Richard Herpin, master perfumer and collaborator on House of Dastan, reflects: "Perfume is storytelling. The same composition can tell a completely different story depending on the wearer's chemistry, environment, and even mood. Approaching fragrance selection thoughtfully transforms it from a product into an extension of personal expression."
Before exploring individual perfumes, it's crucial to understand fragrance strengths, which dictate longevity, sillage, and the way notes unfold on the skin:
- EDTs are bright and uplifting, while EDPs are nuanced and evolve over time. Testing the right concentration ensures the perfume works with your lifestyle and body chemistry.
Kevin Keller, co-founder of Fulton & Roark, adds, "Testing fragrances on your skin rather than a paper blotter is essential. It allows you to understand how each note evolves with your body chemistry and how the scent will perform throughout your day."
Keller shares expert guidance for sampling multiple perfumes at home:
Expert Spray & Wear Strategy
- Pulse Points: Wrists, side of neck, chest, behind ears
- Movement Points: Back of knees, inside elbows
- Hydration: Moisturized skin improves longevity
- Layering: Combine EDTs + EDPs carefully to build depth
Fragrance Recommendations
- AllSaints - Sunset Riot Intense
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Fragrance Family: Amber Woody Floral
Notes: Top: Mandarin Leaves, Pink Pepper, Wild Freesia; Mid: Orange Flower, Night-Blooming Jasmine, Woodland Moss; Base: Cedarwood, Cetalox® Amber, Sueded Musks
Expert Tip: Ideal for day-to-night transitions; lets the floral-woody layers evolve naturally. - Belnu - Rose Steady (Cruelty-Free & Vegan)
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Notes: Top: Frankincense, Cashmere Woods, Bay Leaf; Mid: Rose, Sandalwood, Fig Leaf; Base: Patchouli Heart, Cedarwood, Musk
Expert Tip: Let it bloom on skin for nuanced floral evolution. - Bvlgari - Eau Parfumée Thé Blanc
Concentration: Eau de Toilette (EDT)
Notes: China White Tea SFE Extract, White Musk Accord
Expert Tip: Light and airy; perfect for office or warm climates. - Bvlgari - Eau Parfumée Thé Vert
Concentration: Eau de Toilette (EDT)
Notes: Green Tea SFE Extract, Neroli Petals Accord
Expert Tip: Refresh lightly; interacts subtly with skin pH. - Christian Louboutin - Lavande Fétiche
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Fragrance Family: Aromatic Floral
Notes: Top: Lavender, Bergamot; Mid: Rose, Violet, Iris; Base: Sandalwood, Musk, Cedarwood
Expert Tip: Apply to pulse points and allow the lavender top note to settle for a layered floral experience. - Encina - LE JOCE
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Notes: Grapefruit, Neroli, Jasmine, Amber, Musk
Expert Tip: Genderless and versatile; ideal for layering or signature scent. - Sutherland & Co - Exist
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Fragrance Family: Warm & Spicy
Scent Type: Rich Gourmand Woods
Notes: Turkish Coffee, French Vanilla, Caramel
Expert Tip: Apply to pulse points and let the fragrance interact with your skin for full evolution -- coffee and caramel deepen beautifully on melanin-rich skin. - Etlee - The Pistacho
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Fragrance Family: Gourmand Floral
Notes: Top: Pistachio, Bergamot, Green Almond; Mid: Jasmine, Orris, Tonka Bean; Base: Sandalwood, Vanilla, White Musk
Expert Tip: Apply lightly to pulse points and allow the nutty-pistachio heart to unfold gradually. Ideal for both daytime wear and intimate evening occasions. - Fenty Eau De Parfum (Vegan)
Concentration: Eau de Parfum (EDP)
FragranceFamily:FruityFloralOriental
Notes:Top:Pear,Blackcurrant,Bergamot;Mid:Jasmine,Rose,Violet;Base:Sandalwood,Musk,Vanilla
ExpertTip:Layerlightlyonpulsepointsforlongevity;thefruity-floralinterplayevolvesbeautifullyoverseveralhours. - Fridays With Tab & Chance - Her Business
Concentration:EauDeParfum(EDP)|VEGAN
Notes:Top:Bergamot,OrangeFlower,BaieRose;Mid:Ginger,Orris,Tea;Base:Caramel,TonkaBeans,Cocoa,Vanilla,Musk+
ExpertTip:Perfectforlayeringorpersonalexpression. - Fridays With Tab & Chance - His Business
Concentration:EauDeParfum(EDP)|VEGAN
Notes:Top:Bergamot,Grapefruit,Cardamom;Mid:Tea,Benzoin;Base:Cocoa,SuedeAmber,Cedarwood,Musk
ExpertTip:Idealforcomplementarylayeringorsignaturestatements. - Fulton & Roark - The Window
Concentration:ExtraitdeParfum
OlfactiveFamily:WoodyAmber
Notes:Top:PinkPepper,Lavandin,DesertAir;Mid:GravelGhost,DesertFlorals,YlangYlang;Base:DesertIronwood,Saffron,LeatheredWoods
ExpertTip:Pulsepointsamplifyitswoody-ambercomplexity. - House of Dastan - Game of Joy
Concentration:EauDeParfum(EDP)
Notes:Top:TimurPepper,Cardamom,Elemi,Pear;Mid:Incense,VioletLeaves PassionFruit,Mango Watermelon Orcanox;Base:CashmereWood Musks Cypriol TonkaBean CistusAbsolu Sandalwood Patchouli
ExpertTip:Letfragranceinteractwithskin30-60minforfullcomplexity;topnotesevolvedifferentlydependingbodypH. - House of Dastan - You?
Concentration:EauDeParfum(EDP)
Notes:Bergamot,Pear,Cinnamon,Coriander,Jasmine,Milk,Figs,WhiteChocolate,Freesia,YlangMusks,Sandalwood,Tonka,Cedar
ExpertTip:Idealforwarmorcozyevenings;richgourmand-woodyprofile. - Le Labo - Another 13
Concentration:EauDeParfum(EDP)
Notes:Top:Ambroxan,Pear;Mid:Jasmine,Moss;Base:Musk,Woo d yNotes
ExpertTip:Subtle,musky-woodysignature;basenoteslingeronmelanin-richskin. - Le Labo - Eucalyptus 20
Concentration:EauDeParfum(EDP)
Notes:Top:Eucalyptus,Bergamot,Lemon;Mid:Sage,Gera nium ;Base :Vetiver ,Cedarwood ,Musk
ExpertTip :Spray lightly for crisp ,daytime freshness . - Ouai - Melrose Place
Concentration:EauDeParfum(EDP)
FragranceFamily:FloralFruity
Notes :Top :Pear ,PinkPepper ,Bergamot ;Mid :Jasmine ,Magnolia ,Rose ;Base :CashmereWood ,Vanilla ,Musk
ExpertTip :Sprayonpulsepointsandletthefloral-fruityheartdevelopnaturally.Idealforeverydaywearorcasionaleveningoutings. - Prada - Paradoxe Radical Essence
Concentration :ExtraitdeParfum
Notes :Top :SweetNeroli ;Mid :SaltedPistachioAccord ;Base :CreamySandalwood
ExpertTip :Idealforeveningwear ;gourmandnotesevolvebeautifullyovertime. - Parfums de Marly - Delina
Concentration:Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Notes:Top:Rhubarb,Lychee,Bergamot Essence;Mid:Damascena Rose,Vanilla;Base:Cashmeran,Musk,Vetiver
Expert Tip:Elegant,feminine,and sophisticated. - Parfums de Marly - Valaya
Concentration:Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Notes:Top:Bergamot,Mandarin,White Peach;Mid:Orange Flower,Nympheal,Vetiver;Base:Akigalawood,Ambrofix,Musk
Expert Tip:Layer with lighter EDTs for a full-bodied signature. - Rare Beauty by Selena Gomez - Rare
Concentration:Eau de Parfum(EDP)
Notes:Top:Caramel,Pistachio,Pink Pepper;Mid:Vanilla,Ginger,Cocoa Beans;Base:Sandalwood,Tonka Beans,Skin Musks
Expert Tip:Test over 6+ hours for full evolution;perfect for special occasions. - Tom Ford - Rose Exposed
Concentration:Eau de Parfum(EDP)
Fragrance Family:Floral Woody Musk
Notes:Top:Bergamot,Saffron;Mid:Damask Rose,Jasmine,Geranium;Base Amber,Sandalwood,Musk
Expert Tip:Apply to pulse points and allow the floral heart to bloom;ideal for evening wear or occasions when you want a bold yet sophisticated rose signature.