The skin on your hands is exposed to all sorts of stressors, from cold weather to cleaning products. Even hand soap can strip skin of its natural oils, causing dryness and irritation. Whether you're struggling with skin dryness or want something with anti-ageing benefits, there's probably a hand cream that can help.
The best hand cream for you will depend on the specific problems you're facing, so I asked dermatologists to identify the best ingredients for each goal. The recommendations here are a result of weeks of thorough testing, based on the expert advice I received.
As a beauty writer, I've tested a huge number of cosmetics. I've also completed a course in cosmetic science, which taught me to scan ingredients lists to identify the best products and make solid, science-backed recommendations.
I occasionally suffer from eczema on my hands, especially if I've neglected to wear gloves while cleaning, so I'm also painfully aware which creams can help calm down flare-ups.
I tested 15 hand creams from popular manufacturers, taking notes on skin-hydration levels, star ingredients and how good each cream felt on application.
Nobody wants to be left with slippery, oily hands, so I noted how quickly each cream sank into my skin. If a cream was scented, I checked how well the fragrance stuck around after application.
I also used a moisture reader to test the hydration levels of my hands before and after using each hand cream. I washed my hands as usual during this period, testing my hydration levels after each wash. This showed how well hydration levels lasted without needing reapplication.
I took a close look at each hand cream's ingredients list, checking for the dermatologist-recommended active ingredients in decent quantities, as well as any common irritants, such as alcohols or heavy fragrance.
"The hands face more exposure to environmental and lifestyle aggressors, such as UV rays, extreme cold and hot temperatures, and excessive washing," says Dr Mo Akhavani, co-founder of the Plastic Surgery Group. "Creams offer nourishment and hydration to the skin on the hands, as well as helping to protect them from these lifestyle and environmental factors."
"Apply hand cream after washing your hands, as soap can strip the skin's natural oils," says consultant dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips. "Cell regeneration peaks when you sleep," so you may even want to keep a hand cream on your nightstand to help boost these natural regenerative processes. "Applying it before bed allows for deeper absorption and repair." Overnight use can also keep the cream on the skin for longer, giving it more time to work without disturbance.
The weather also has an impact on our hands. "You may also need to apply hand creams more often in extreme weather conditions, such as if hands are exposed to cold, dry conditions," says Phillips. This is usually a bigger problem in winter, as colder air has lower humidity and central heating indoors dries out the air even further. Pair this with the comparatively low number of oil glands in the hands, and you've got a recipe for dryness.
Hand creams and body moisturisers are formulated differently, according to Phillips. "Hand cream typically has a thicker and more emollient consistency, with a higher oil content in order to address dry skin."
"It's also usually formulated to help create a protective barrier against the elements, as well as lifestyle habits such as frequent washing. Body moisturiser is typically made with higher water content so that it's easier to spread over large areas."
Buying a dedicated cream is a targeted way to protect your hands' skin barrier. That said, if your budget can't stretch to a hand cream, using a body moisturiser can help hydrate the hands in the short term - you'll just miss out on some of the protective benefits associated with hand creams that have higher oil and emollient formulations.
"The best ingredients are those that focus on hydration and drawing moisture into the skin. Humectants are key to this," says Akhavani. The most popular of these are glycerine and hyaluronic acid, although many exist, including AHAs (lactic acid and glycolic acid), aloe vera and panthenol.
Also, "ceramides are essential as they replenish the natural lipids in the skin barrier, helping it to seal in hydration and protect against further irritation," says Phillips. He also recommends shea butter, "a rich emollient that coats the skin in a protective layer, soothing dryness while helping to restore suppleness".
Natural moisturising factors, or NMFs, are also crucial in a hand cream, as they mimic naturally occurring components of the skin barrier, helping restore the skin's moisture levels long term. "Urea is especially valuable for rough or cracked skin because it hydrates and gently softens thickened areas, making the skin feel smoother," says Phillips. Other NMFs include peptides, sodium PCA and amino acids.
"Many people notice that with age their hands lose their natural volume, elasticity and plumpness making them appear more wrinkled and saggy," says Akhavani. "Some people may also experience this after weight loss."
According to the experts, ageing skin on the hands can be tackled in much the same way as ageing skin on the face. That is, by using retinol to smooth fine lines over time; vitamin C to brighten uneven tone; and niacinamide to help support skin barrier while reducing pigmentation.