The secret 'underground' Italian restaurant hidden in Sydney

The secret 'underground' Italian restaurant hidden in Sydney
Source: Daily Mail Online

Welcome to The Detour: Your food and travel guide to the best flavours, hidden haunts, insider tips and unforgettable new experiences that reward those who wander off course.

As promised, I finally paid a visit to Sydney's newest underground Italian, Osteria Luna.

And yes, it delivers.

For the uninitiated, this sultry little gem sits beneath Sydney's Charles Brasserie & Bar on York Street, tucked inside a 1938 Art Deco building that feels primed for after dark fun.

It's a fantastic atmosphere. Live jazz, a buzzing dining room and some of the best Italian food currently being served in the city all come together in one beautiful space.

Executive chef Billy Hannigan and head chef Peter Fiander set out to deliver 'soulful dishes with theatre', and it shows. Case in point: the tableside caprese, thrown together right at your seat while you watch.

Between the passionate staff, a knockout drinks list and the speakeasy mood, the menu deserves special mention. Especially the now-viral single-sheet ravioli, stuffed with mushrooms and slicked with brown butter. It more than lives up to the hype.

Other standouts I'm still thinking about include the Stracciatella with smoked olive oil, impossibly fluffy focaccia and a simply perfect veal cotoletta. Faultless.

I adored the Stracciatella and the now-viral single-sheet ravioli, stuffed with mushrooms and slicked with brown butter. It more than lives up to the hype.

And that was all before the most divine tiramisu I've ever tasted landed on the table.

It's an all-day effort for the team, too. By day, lunch while a silver bell sings to signal trays of complimentary frozen limoncello coupes. By night, staff slip into burgundy velvet jackets, the DJ glides between Italo disco and lounge classics, and the room transforms into an underground world of its own.

As Hannigan puts it: 'Osteria Luna captures the warmth and playfulness of classic Italian dining where old school hospitality is revived.'
'It has a moody charm, the kind of place where you feel encouraged to settle in, linger over food, laughter and just a touch of chaos.'

Honestly, that sums it up perfectly.

For the uninitiated, this sultry little gem sits beneath Sydney's Charles Brasserie & Bar on York Street, tucked inside a 1938 Art Deco building that feels primed for after dark fun

It's a fantastic atmosphere. Live jazz, a buzzing dining room and some of the best Italian food currently being served in the city all come together in one beautiful space

Sydney's sexiest new bar

I have a real soft spot for The Porter House Hotel. It's always a good time, and now it's got a moody rooftop worth your while.

Bar See See is a tucked-away city escape serving pan-Asian energy with a focus on Moutai, the prestigious baijiu often dubbed China's national drink. Consider it a fresh, very Sydney take on an ancient spirit.

Set across five buzzing levels, the Porter House precinct already counts the Grounds & Cellar Door, private event spaces Porter and Alia, and two-hatted restaurant Lee Ho Fook.

Bar See See slides neatly into that line-up as a baijiu-led first for Sydney, pairing Moutai-driven cocktails with whisky, taps flowing beer and spritzes, and a wine list curated by group sommelier Louella Mathews.

Food comes courtesy of Lee Ho Fook executive chef Brad Guest, with a tight, share-friendly menu spanning Sydney Rock oysters with ginger and shallot vinegar, salt and pepper lotus chips, duck croquettes and spiced snacks made for grazing.

Led by venue manager Nance Liong, the 100-seat space leans into refined fun and cultural fusion.

As Liong puts it: 'Bar See See is about reimagining Moutai for modern drinkers. It's a space where curiosity meets craft - where you can explore something ancient, but in a way that feels fresh, social and very Sydney.'

Design-wise, it nods to Moutai's flying fairy motif and Rorschach-style symmetry, creating a moody, ever-shifting atmosphere that suits a long sunset session.

Bar See See is open from 4pm, Wednesday to Saturday.

Breathtaking views at voco Gosford

The long-awaited voco Gosford has officially opened inside the Archibald precinct, delivering a welcome dose of luxury to the Central Coast just over an hour north of Sydney.

Rising 28 storeys above the skyline, the sleek new hotel delivers 130 luxe rooms, a podium-level pool with swim-up bar, and a rooftop venue that looks like it belongs in the CBD instead of the coastal town.

Part of IHG Hotels & Resorts' premium portfolio, the rooms are spacious and light-filled, with plush bedding, large modern bathrooms and floor-to-ceiling windows with many opening onto balconies with sweeping coastal views.

The real showstopper is Astra, perched on level 28 as the Central Coast's highest rooftop bar.

Dining is a major drawcard, with six bars and restaurants on site. Think Aussie pub classics at Archies downstairs, woodfired steaks at Ironbark Kitchen, hand-rolled pasta at Paolo's, and lazy afternoons by the pool bar.

But the real showstopper is Astra, perched on level 28 as the Central Coast's highest rooftop bar.

Led by Michelin-trained executive chef Maxime Chasseriaud, the Japanese-inspired izakaya pairs fire-driven flavours with panoramic views - and it's already shaping up as the region's hottest new address.

In short, The Central Coast's luxury staycation destination has officially arrived, with rooms priced from a very reasonable $299.

The Central Coast's new crown jewel

Speaking of major movements on the Coast, the Terrigal Pavilion opened on December 3 - something I heard nothing but excited whispers about during my visit in August.

The glossy new venue is the latest blockbuster from hospitality heavyweights Ben May and Rob Domjen, the lauded team behind the famous Burleigh Pavilion in the Gold Coast.

Perched right on the shoreline, the sprawling, multi-level venue brings polished coastal energy to one of NSW's most loved beach towns.

Upstairs, The Pav delivers sweeping ocean views, a wraparound deck with a sea of pastel umbrellas to perch under, and a relaxed, all-day menu built for sharing.

For those overwhelmed by choice, the large salted-lavosh crackers paired with the buffalo curd and honey are a must for starters, followed by the aforementioned tuna and the wagyu flank for a main dish.

Dining-wise, it offers delicious potato scallops, fish tacos, oysters, golden schnitzels and excellent woodfired pizzas from a show-stopping brick 2,000kg brick pizza oven.

Downstairs, The Tropic offers a more refined Mediterranean experience.

It boasts soft, sun-washed interiors with seafood-led dishes including shucked oysters,
tuna crudo,
anchovies
and a beautifully cooked snapper fillet,
backed by an impressive 90-plus bottle wine list
and set menus from $80.

For those overwhelmed by choice,
the large salted-lavosh crackers paired with the buffalo curd and honey are a must for starters,
followed by the aforementioned tuna and the wagyu flank for a main dish.

Rounding out the precinct is The General Store,
a breezy takeaway spot serving coffees at sunrise,
acai bowls and casual beachside bites throughout the day.

A flame-grilled chicken spot in Bondi

The new hotspot heating up Hall Street is cult chicken shop Henrietta Bondi.

Nestled in The Hub,
Bondi's newly revamped gourmet food precinct
and home to some of the most celebrated venues including Da Orazio,
Gelato Messina
and Oprah's go-to Bills restaurant,
it brings Lebanese-style charcoal chicken moments from the beach.

The space is bright,
minimal,
and clean with neon accents,
terrazzo floor finishes
and a bar pouring spritzes,
spicy margaritas
and espresso martinis.

The star,
of course,
is the chicken in the form of juicy,
flame-kissed bites that are best eaten with your hands.

The new hotspot heating up Hall Street is cult chicken shop Henrietta Bondi. The star, of course, is the chicken in the form of juicy, flame-kissed bites that are best eaten with your hands

The space is bright, minimal, and clean with neon accents, terrazzo floor finishes and a bar pouring spritzes, spicy margaritas and espresso martinis

Mezze rounds things out, from smoky babaganoush and crisp falafel to grill favourites like shish tawouk on skewers and lamb koftas

Tear into warm pita bread,
slather it with punchy garlic toum,
add pickles and sides like fattoush or tabouli for a tailored taste.
The chicken comes whole,
half or by the piece to suit your appetite.

Mezze rounds things out,
from smoky babaganoush and crisp falafel
to grill favourites like shish tawouk on skewers
and lamb koftas.

Don't skip the eggplant fatteh or the brussels sprouts - both are standout dishes worth ordering again.

Building on the popularity of its Surry Hills and Parramatta venues,
Henrietta's Bondi outpost feels perfectly tuned to its beachside setting.

Overseen by executive chef Ibrahim Kasif,
the menu is fresh,
generous
and made for sharing.