Forbes contributors publish independent expert analyses and insights.
There's a vegan dish making the rounds at one of Beverly Hills' most storied addresses that passes a test few plant-based advocates like to publicly acknowledge but that remains a sticking point for skeptics: it tastes like meat. Not just meat, mind you, but meat and cheese, veal and beef -- so convincingly that diners are summoning Executive Chef Luis Cuadra from the kitchen to confirm he hasn't simply relabeled the traditional version.
He hasn't. But the confusion is understandable.
"We have a traditional Bolognese on the menu," Cuadra explains, recounting an incident from two weeks after the dish debuted. "A guest was absolutely certain we'd mixed up their order. I went out to the dining room and had to very respectfully say, 'Sir, I kid you not, this is the carrot Bolognese.' Their jaw dropped."
A Recipe in Transit
The Peninsula Beverly Hills -- which is celebrating its 35th anniversary (officially, in 2026) with a thoughtful, French-inspired refresh that preserves the property's residential elegance while updating guest rooms with blush, blue, and green palettes -- introduced the dish as part of its rotating "Naturally Peninsula" menu. The concept was to offer plant-based alternatives for health-conscious guests on a seasonal rotation. What Cuadra didn't anticipate was how quickly a temporary menu item would eclipse Dover sole and filet mignon in certain circles.
The Bolognese pasta recipe itself has floated among hotel chefs across Los Angeles, each iteration refining the formula. Cuadra, a CIA-trained chef with over 15 years in luxury hospitality and stints at several hotel properties, made it his own through meticulous sourcing and technique.
The Alchemy of a Beverly Hills Vegan Sensation
The magic begins with Munak Ranch tomatoes -- specifically red sungold and blush varieties from the renowned California farm known for exceptionally flavorful heirloom produce. "We're not opening San Marzano cans," Cuadra notes, though he says those are excellent. "We're paying tribute to what's fresh here." During peak season (late June through August), the kitchen buys Munak tomatoes by the case, cooks them down to a jam, then vacuum-seals and freezes the base for year-round use.
The "meat" component is where things get interesting. Walnuts, mushrooms, carrots, and other vegetables are pulsed to a finer consistency that stands in for ground beef -- the visual keystone of any respectable Bolognese. "Everything gets added in stages on the stove," Cuadra explains. "The sauce cooks low and slow." The final flourish: nutritional yeast, which delivers the umami depth and meaty flavor that makes doubters call his bluff.
The pasta itself -- pappardelle -- is the only element not made in-house, chosen specifically for its starch content and vegan credentials. "We wanted pasta with enough starch so the Bolognese clings to it, which is why we use a dry pasta," says Cuadra. "It’s a little song and dance -- the right amount of pasta water and starch to bind it all together."
For context, Cuadra’s traditional Bolognese employs a 50/50 beef-to-veal ratio with the classic mirepoix, everything caramelized in stages, deglazed, cooked with leftover Parmesan rinds, and finished with a splash of milk. That he’s managed to approximate this complexity without dairy or animal protein speaks to both technique and California’s agricultural abundance.
The Farmers Market Effect
Cuadra credits Los Angeles farmers markets -- "freshness on steroids," as he puts it -- for reshaping his approach since joining The Peninsula over a year ago. Every Saturday, whichever chef is available meets at the Santa Monica Farmers Market for coffee and inspiration. "Our menus are very produce-driven," he says. "People think of spring and summer for produce, but in winter, squash is king. And the persimmons right now are to die for."
The carrot Bolognese isn't alone in exceeding expectations. A vegan butternut squash bisque made with coconut milk and unsweetened coconut cream, originally conceived for one Thanksgiving menu, has outlived its occasion. "On a given day it will outsell the carrot bolognese," Cuadra admits. Guests call ahead to arrange pickup from the hotel's front drive or order poolside.
Word is getting out about what Cuadra calls "the willingness to take a leap of faith on vegetables" dressed as something they're not. The dish demands attention and love -- Cuadra's words -- but rewards guests with something rare: a vegan preparation that doesn't merely satisfy plant-based diners but literally surprises omnivores. And at a Beverly Hills hotel property where you can check in as early as 6 a.m. and check out as late as 10 p.m. (the civilized "Peninsula Time" policy), perhaps it's fitting that even the vegetables operate on their own elevated timeline.