Visitors take in one of 42 presidential sculptures situated in a field outside Williamsburg, Va., on Saturday. (Max Posner/For The Washington Post)
CROAKER, Va. -- George Washington's chin is crumbling. His cheeks are streaked with sooty grime. His blackened nose is peeling, an apparent victim of frostbite and sunburn. Still, America's first leader looks nicer than usual. In the winter months, wasps aren't nesting in his eyes.
"Just beautiful," observed Cesia Rodriguez, a 32-year-old massage therapist gazing up at the Founding Father -- or what remained of him.
She'd pulled on rain boots, driven about an hour and trudged through the mud of what her tour guide called "an industrial dump" early Saturday with dozens of other tourists to see "The Presidents Heads," a private collection of every ex-POTUS's sculpted likeness from Washington to George W. Bush. They're arranged in haphazard rows, with Andrew Jackson occupying a prime front spot simply because the owner likes his hair. The vibe is Stonehenge-meets-"The Walking Dead."
Before they started sinking into the ground, the busts fashioned from concrete, plaster and rebar -- was that Styrofoam poking through some cranial holes? -- stood about twice the height of a basketball hoop. They each weighed at least five tons. Time has not been kind. Chester A. Arthur's entire jaw is missing. Ulysses S. Grant has lost a chunk of his right eyebrow. And Franklin D. Roosevelt was "scalped" in transit, the tour guide noted, by a Route 199 overpass.
These commanders in chief weren't supposed to spoil. They were carved with patriotic love by a Texas sculptor who studied in Paris under a French modern master. They were the polished centerpieces of a $10 million park that in 2010 went bankrupt after six years. Not enough admirers wanted to see them back when they were pristine.
Now the wait list stretches into the hundreds. Demand didn't spike, their owner said, until the heads were rotting. Not that their misfortune attracted haters. Quite the opposite. In the wreckage, guests said they could see their country and themselves with more tenderness than judgment. "That one's me," a 20-something chirped at jawless Arthur.
Rodriguez didn't mull the symbolism when she learned about the spectacle on Facebook. Seeing spooky historical art, she figured, was a fun way to spend Presidents' Day weekend. Up close, though, the oddities stirred something familiar.
She thought of the America she loved: her clients, who came from everywhere with stiff necks and bad backs. The nurses, teachers, soldiers and everyone else on her massage table, resting up to go at it again.
"It's the imperfections, for me," she said.
The late sculptor, David Adickes, was an Army veteran who'd wanted his stony visages to gleam. On an early-aughts trip to Mount Rushmore, he’d contemplated the granite mugs of Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt and Lincoln and thought: Why stop at four?
Adickes, who died last year at 98, hoped the 42 statues he chiseled at his Houston studio would land in the nation's capital, he said on a 2022 podcast, but real estate was too costly. So in 2004, he and a business partner settled on a plot near Colonial Williamsburg, aiming to draw history buffs and stroller-pushing families. The Great Recession, overpriced tickets and poor marketing dashed that vision.
After the busts went bust, a rental car company purchased Presidents Park and hired local builder Howard Hankins to help flatten it into a parking lot.
"I just couldn't see crushin' 'em," Hankins recalled.
Instead, he loaded the abandoned dignitaries onto a fleet of flatbed trucks and escorted them (minus their pedestals) to his farm-slash-industrial dump. Storing them in a muddy field was meant to be temporary, he insisted. A presidential fanatic, Hankins envisioned building a new museum. But the 11-mile move alone cost him $50,000, he said. A decade and a half later, the idea exists only on drawings.
By 2019, Virginia photographer John Plashal caught wind of what was disintegrating on Hankins' out-of-the-way acres. He pitched himself as a tour guide to the introverted contractor, and the two hatched a fresh back-road attraction. A few times per year, guests can pay $28.35 to marvel at what the website deems "neglect and decay." As word spread on social media, Ozzy Osbourne stopped by. So did producers of a certain hit zombie series (though they filmed nothing on-site). And the heads just kept deteriorating.
"Now they look like they've got leprosy," Plashal told the Saturday crowd. "In the summer, they all have an active wasp nest in their eyeballs."
Yet the place, he continued, has only grown more popular. Nearly 600 people showed up over the weekend, coming from as far as Germany and the Dominican Republic.
So what, he asked the group, is the rationale for rolling in now?
Up shot the arm of 10-year-old Evelyn Price.
"Because they are falling apart," the Norfolk fourth-grader offered, "but, um, life is kinda like that."
Mess is part of our heritage, her mother added, so wading through muck to engage with the past felt right.
"America is really, really good at getting things very, very wrong," mused 41-year-old Treloar Price, a clinical psychologist," and then working hard to try to fix it."
The behemoth noggins reflected the transience of American power to Doug Tempest, a 46-year-old Navy veteran from Richmond.
Dictators overseas have clung to power for decades, but here, so far -- though our current leader has riffed about a third term -- no president has defied the Constitution or the will of voters to stay in the White House. Every four years, a new victor can shake things up while the old Oval Office occupant's influence tends to fade.
"One of the superpowers that our country has is we can change direction," Tempest said.
For Caren Bueshi, a 62-year-old retired teacher from Naples, Florida, witnessing the sculptures sag into the dirt conjured what she feared the nation was losing. Constitutional literacy, for one. Recent reports of federal agents detaining immigrants with the right papers and clean criminal records disturbed her.
"We're forgetting the foundation," she said,wandering past Jackson's splintering mane."It's a challenging time."
"It always is," interjected her mother, 91-year-old Pat Duke, clutching her arm."From the beginning."
Mom leaned right.Daughter leaned left.But they didn't want to get into politics.The nonagenarian looked at the presidents and saw men.She saw mortality.
"My life is getting short now," she said,"so I'm just enjoying it."
A few heads over,Andrea Cote,a 44-year-old consultant,tried to turn the eerie scene into a history lesson for her 9-year-old daughter,June.
This is Chester A.Arthur missing his jaw,”she said,pauseing in front of the gaping mouth.The rebar inside looked like rusted braces without teeth.
“Scary,”June said.
“And Thomas Jefferson was the one who didn’t like to publicly speak,”Cote deadpanned.
Jokes aside,the derelict skulls touched her.So many families braved the chill that day,she noticed,for a glimpse at American history,no matter what shape it was in.They were interested.They cared.They were coming together.
So Cote smiled when a fellow tourist with a fancy camera approached.
If you squat right here,”he told her kid,“you can get a picture of the sun coming right through his mouth.”
June grabbed her mom’s phone and aimed it just so.
“Whoa!” she squealed.
“See,” he said,“now there’s something positive.”